On the tiny island of Pantelleria, heroic viticulture produces some of the best wines in the world, but it’s not easy

On the remote island of Pantelleria – just off the coast of Sicily but closer to Tunisia than mainland Europe – farmers have practiced heroic farming for centuries. An arid volcanic island with rocky coves where black lava contrasts with the bright azure sea and mountain peaks reach over 2,600 feet above sea level. Pantelleria produces outstanding wines in unfavorable conditions. The most famous of these wines is Passito di Pantelleria, a dessert wine prized for its rich caramel and apricot notes. And the most famous passito di Pantelleria is Ben Rayet. Donnafugataone of the leading wineries in Sicily.

“The heroic farming on the island led to people living in almost extreme conditions in which they learned to cultivate the land using only the primary resources of the earth, using only their own strength,” says Gabriella Favara, who represents the sixth generation of the island’s inhabitants. The Donnafugata family. “This is a magical island that makes you live in its slow rhythms and opens up new places for you.”

But what exactly makes agriculture heroic? Essentially, this is a type of agriculture that requires almost superhuman effort from both the farmers and the plants themselves. Mechanization is not possible due to the difficult terrain, so everything from planting and pruning to harvesting is done by hand. According to Center for Research, Research and Evaluation of Mountain ViticultureTo be considered heroic viticulture, the following conditions must be met: a minimum 30% slope, an altitude greater than 1,600 feet above sea level, growing on steps or terraces, or growing on small islands under difficult growing conditions.

In Pantelleria, the vines not only grow on artificial dry stone terraces that climb the mountain slopes of this small island, but they also have to contend with the very strong Sirocco wind blowing from Africa. Here’s how Alberello Pantesco was born. Recognized by UNESCO as an “intangible cultural heritage of humanity,” Alberello Pantesco is the name given to vines that were trained to grow low to the ground to protect themselves from the wind. When a farmer plants them, he digs a shallow hole in the volcanic soil before planting the vine there. The hole collects morning dew and directs moisture to the roots of the vine. They are nourished by sun, soil and moisture, since irrigation is not possible in Pantelleria as there is very little rain.

“The traditional dry stone walls used to create the terraces help prevent soil erosion, and the alberello growing system protects the vines from wind and catches rainwater, allowing the soil to retain moisture for longer. A lack of water may reduce yields, but results in the production of wines with more concentrated flavors,” explains Antonio Rallo, winemaker and CEO of Donnafugata, adding that the use of terraces also promotes sustainability and protects the island’s biodiversity.

The only grape variety produced in Pantelleria is Zibibbo, also known as Muscat of Alexandria, native to North Africa. Donnafugata vinifies it in three ways: as a dry white wine called Lighea, with notes of orange blossom and bergamot, with a mineral finish; like Kabir, a sweet but fresh Moscato di Pantelleria with notes of passion fruit and orange blossom; and like the rich Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria with its amber hue and aromatic bouquet that acquires honeyed notes with age.

“The island’s extreme conditions—high winds, arid climate and rugged terrain—create unique growing conditions for zibibbo, which is ideally suited to thrive in this environment,” says Rallo. “These natural factors give the wines a characteristic intensity, a balance between freshness and sweetness, and an expressive aroma.”

Despite the differences these three wines have, each exhibits a distinct minerality and freshness thanks to the terroir and heroic viticulture that produces them. When you drink them, you can almost feel the warmth of the sun and the sea breeze.

“Pantelleria wines exhibit intense aromas and flavors, as well as a distinct mineral backbone that captures the essence of Pantelleria,” says Rallo, concluding: “There is simply no other place in the world outside of Pantelleria where our wines can be produced.”