What is “Russian manicure” and can it affect your health?

Getting a manicure doesn’t seem like a controversial proposition, but one nail treatment is making waves as a surprisingly controversial salon option.

Although some nail artists have been offering Russian manicures for years, it has recently been gaining traction on TikTok as a popular beauty treatment. Users praise this manicure for its no-soak cuticle removal technique, which they say gives them clean, perfect nails. “This is truly a model of helping hands.” user Alexus talked about her nails after getting a manicure.

However, the procedure has also drawn backlash on TikTok from dermatologists and other specialists who say focusing on the cuticle comes with serious safety risks. “It’s easy to forget that cuticles actually have a functional purpose,” board-certified dermatologist Courtney Rubin said in her article. video warning about Russian manicure.

While reports like these are certainly alarming, you might be interested to see what other skin experts have to say about cosmetic procedures, including whether you should skip them for safety reasons. Here’s a look at the evidence.

To understand the controversy surrounding Russian manicure, it helps to know what the technique entails.

Russian manicure, which originated in Eastern Europe, uses a different method than what you are used to at many nail salons in the United States. One of the main features of Russian manicure is that it does not require the usual soaking of nails in water to soften the surface. cuticlea layer of translucent skin at the base of the nail. Instead, manicurists move straight to filing the cuticles while they’re dry.

“This technique involves using an electric file to aggressively trim and clean the cuticles, creating a smooth, ‘perfect’ surface around the nail bed.” Hannah Kopelman, DOdermatologist told DermOnDemand Health.

Russian manicure usually involves complete removal of the cuticle. “This is different from a traditional manicure, in which the cuticle skin, after soaking, is pulled back and trimmed with scissors or clippers,” he said. Brendan Camp, MDdermatologist at MDCS Dermatology in New York.

After removing the cuticles, the nail technician will typically buff the nail bed and then apply another coat of your chosen polish. The entire process may take two to three hours.

By removing the cuticles and skin around the nail bed, your nails have a larger “canvas” for polish, making them appear longer and fuller. TikTokers and celebrities rave that the procedure creates a flawless look and that they will “never go back” to a traditional manicure. Some also claim that this technique lasts longer than other types of manicures, allowing you to spend more time between salon visits.

While it’s easy to see the appeal of the Russian manicure’s sleek aesthetic, cuticle removal has some dermatologists concerned about nail health. This is because the main purpose of the cuticle is to create a barrier that protects the nails and the skin around them from potentially harmful substances. harmful bacteria.

“The American Academy of Dermatology recommends leaving the cuticle alone,” Camp noted. “They grow above the nail root to protect the nail; Damage to the cuticle can lead to nail injury or infection.”

Some potential infections include onychomycosis, fungal nail infectionor paronychia, which develops in the skin around the nail, Camp said. For example, a 2022 case study described a 20-year-old woman who got a Russian manicure and then developed paronychia. She went to the emergency room after experiencing pain, swelling, and pus from the area around her nail (she recovered after a course of antibiotics). Kopelman said she has also seen patients develop cellulite after the procedure.

An infection that starts in the hands can spread to other parts of the body. “Although it is uncommon, there is a real risk of systemic infection,” Kopelman said. “The invasive approach of the Russian manicure can introduce bacteria or fungi into the bloodstream if the protective barrier of the cuticle is compromised.”

However, infections are not the only problem associated with Russian manicure. This technique may harm your nails. According to Kopelman, when the cuticle is removed so close to the nail bed, it compromises the structure and integrity of the nail, increasing fragility and sensitivity. “I often see patients with nails that have become weaker or thinner after frequent Russian manicures,” she said. “Furthermore, repeated trauma to the cuticle area can lead to chronic inflammation or even scarring that affects nail growth in the long term.”

Camp didn’t advise everyone to avoid Russian manicures, but said it’s important to be aware of the risks. If you do choose one, he recommends choosing a nail technician with more experience.

Kopelman, on the other hand, does not recommend this procedure. “In my professional opinion, Russian manicures are best avoided or approached with extreme caution,” she said.

More gentle alternatives, such as using cuticle oils, can improve the appearance of nails without compromising the skin barrier, Kopelman added. “I remind my patients that there are safe ways to keep their nails looking beautiful while maintaining the health and integrity of both the nails and the surrounding skin,” she said.